interstate 35 map The monasteries flourished during the Theravada period (Bavikonda, from the 3rd century BC to the 3r

Hotel Bliss HOTEL $$ (%2237773; www.blisstirupati.com; interstate 35 map Reniguta Rd; s/d from 1710/1980; ais) The most luxurious place in town with ultracomfortable rooms, professional staff and a glass lift with great views and droning pilgrim elevator music.

Most buses and trains will stop en route at Bhongir, 60km from Hyderabad. It s worth jumping down for a couple of hours to climb the fantastical-looking 12th-century Chalukyan hill fort (admission 3; h9am6pm). Looking like a gargantuan stone egg, the hill is mostly ringed by stairs.

The monasteries flourished during the Theravada period (Bavikonda, from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century interstate 35 map AD, and Thotlakonda, from the 2nd century BC to 2nd century AD) and had votive stupas, congregation halls, chaitya-grihas, viharas and refectories. Today only the ruins of these massive monastic compounds remain, but they re impressive nonetheless, with a placid, almost magical, air and sea views to meditate on. Bavikonda and Thotlakonda are 14km and 16km, respectively, from Vizag on Bheemli Beach Rd. Vizag s autorickshaw drivers charge around 400 return to see both.

Hyderabad interstate 35 map Perfumers PERFUMERY (Map p900; Patthargatti; h10am-8.30pm Mon- Sat) The family-run Hyderabad Perfumers, which has been in business for four generations, can whip something up for you on the spot.