New Andhra Hotel INDIAN $ (Sree Kanya Lodge, Bowdara traffic on nj turnpike Rd; mains 25-75; h11am-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) An unassuming little place with really traffic on nj turnpike good, really hot Andhra dishes. Meals ( 50/130 for veg/ non-veg) and biryani are top-notch.
Once the Andhran capital and a significant Buddhist centre, Amaravathi is India s biggest stupa (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h8am6pm), measuring 27m high and constructed in the 3rd century BC, when Emperor Ashoka sent monks south to spread the Buddha s teaching. Located 60km west of Vijayawada, all that remains are a mound and some stones, but the nearby museum (admission 5; h8am-5pm) has a small replica of the stupa, with its intricately carved pillars, marble- surfaced dome and carvings traffic on nj turnpike of scenes from the Buddha s life (no photography allowed in the museum). In the courtyard is a reconstruction of part of the surrounding gateway, which gives you an idea of the stupa s massive scale. It s worth the trip, but many of Amaravathi s best sculptures are in London s British Museum and Chennai s Government Museum in Tamil Nadu.
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