Laad Bazaar MARKET (Map p900) West of the Charminar, the crowded Laad Bazaar is the perfect place to get lost. It has everything from fi ne perfumes, fabrics and jewels to musical instruments, secondhand saris and kitchen implements. Artisans are tucked away creating jewellery and scented oils, large pots and burkas. The lanes around the Charminar also form the centre of India s pearl trade. Some great deals can be had if you know your stuff.
The Kirandol passenger train ( 20, five hours) leaves Vizag at 6.50am and Araku at 3pm. It s a slow, spectacular ride; sit on the right-hand side coming out of Vizag for best views. For Jungle Bells, get off at Tyda station, 500m from the resort. Frequent buses ( 58, 4 hours) leave from Araku to Vizag every hour until 7pm.
Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful option with rooms looking out to fields, though it s overpriced. The Hill Resort Mayuri (%958936-249204; cottages from 650; a), near the museum, has cottages map of all 50 states with good views. There s also a few uninspiring map of all 50 states options around the station, otherwise you could try the forest retreat of Jungle Bells (Tyda; cottages from 800; a), 45km from Araku, with cottages tucked away in woods. Book at APTDC. You can sample the local coffee at Araku Valley Coffee House (h9am-9pm), next to the Museum of Habitat.
Big Dosa Company INDIAN $ (Rd No 45, Jubilee Hills; dosas 75-135; map of all 50 states h8am11pm) There s a lot that s big about this dosa joint: the portions, the taste and the very idea itself of a gourmet dosa. The feta cheese and roasted pepper dosa, served with sundried-tomato chutney or the shredded chicken dosa make the journey out to Jubilee map of all 50 states Hills worthwhile.
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