interstate 95 construction Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; h8am-5pm), 1

If you re travelling around Andhra Pradesh during Ramadan (known locally as Ramzan), look out for the clay ovens called bhattis. You ll probably hear them before you see them. Men gather around, taking turns to vigorously pound haleem inside purpose-built structures. Come nightfall, the serious business of eating begins. The taste is worth the wait. In September 2010, this love of the dish was taken a step further, being patented as Hyderabadi haleem interstate 95 construction ; prohibited to be served under that name unless it meets the strict quality guidelines.

MMTS trains (www.mmts.co.in) are convenient, particularly for the three main train stations. There are two main lines: Hyderabad (Nampally) to Lingampalli (northwest of Banjara Hills) has 11 stops, including Lakdikapul, Khairatabad, Necklace Rd, Begumpet and Hitec City; the Falaknuma (south of Old City) to Secunderabad line passes by Yakutpura, Dabirpura, Malakpet and Kachiguda among others. Trains will be labelled with their start and end point: interstate 95 construction HL is Hyderabad Lingampalli, FS is Falaknuma Secunderabad and so on. Trains are efficient but only run every 30 to 40 minutes. Tickets are 3 to 10.

Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off erings. Andhra Pradesh s cuisine has two major influences. The Mughals brought tasty biryanis, haleem (pounded, spiced wheat with goat or mutton) and kebabs. The Andhra style is vegetarian and famous for its spiciness.

Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; h8am-5pm), 14km west of Tirupathi. Both the Rani Mahal and the Raja Mahal, which houses a small museum (h10am-5pm Sat-Thu), were constructed under Vijayanagar rule and resemble structures in Hampi s Royal Centre. There s a nightly sound-and-light show (admission 35; h8pm Mar-Oct, 7.30pm Nov-Feb), narrated by Bollywood great Amitabh Bachchan. Buses for Chandragiri ( 10) leave Tirupathi bus station every half-hour. An autorickshaw is 200 return.