If you re travelling around Andhra Pradesh during Ramadan (known locally as Ramzan), look out for the clay ovens called bhattis. You ll probably hear them before you see them. Men gather around, taking turns to vigorously pound haleem inside purpose-built structures. Come nightfall, the serious business of eating begins. The taste is worth the wait. In September 2010, this love of the dish was taken a step further, being patented as Hyderabadi haleem ; prohibited to be served under that name unless it meets the strict quality guidelines.
Hyderabad s long-distance bus stations are mind-bogglingly efficient. Mahatma Gandhi bus station (Map p900; %24614406), more commonly united states map for kids known as Imlibun, has advance booking offices (%23434269; h8am-10pm). For trips to Karnataka, go with KSRTC (%24656430). Visit www.apsrtc.co.in for timetables and fares.
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